Wired USB
Try a port on the computer itself, not a hub or the monitor. If the cable is damaged near the mouse, wiggling it while moving will cut out the cursor.
Most mouse problems are a port, a battery, a setting or a remap — not a dead mouse. Pick what is happening, work through the fixes in order, then check every button with the test below.
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If the cursor will not move, use the keyboard (Tab and Enter) or a touchpad to read the steps. Once it moves, test every button below.
1 · What is happening?
2 · Try these, in order
Most likely: a port, power or driver problem — rarely a dead sensor.
Most likely: a weak battery or a receiver that is too far away or next to a USB 3 device.
Most likely: a remap in the mouse software or swapped buttons — a failed switch only if it is dead everywhere.
Most likely: a worn switch whose contacts bounce past the mouse’s debounce filter.
Most likely: dust in the wheel encoder, or a scroll setting in one app.
Most likely: the surface, a dirty sensor window, a weak battery or a polling rate set too high.
Point inside the box and press every button once, then scroll both ways. Clicks here do nothing else — right-click, wheel click and the side buttons are blocked from opening menus or going back a page.
1 · Which buttons does your mouse have?
2 · Press, scroll and hold inside the box
0/7checks
Waiting for input…
Event log
Plug the mouse into a different USB port directly on the computer and restart. For a wireless mouse, replace the battery and re-pair it, or move the receiver closer. If the cursor moves but clicks or scrolling fail, run the Mouse Test on this page: a button that stays silent on two computers is a failed switch; one that types a key has been remapped in software.
When the cursor does not move at all, work from the cheapest cause to the most expensive:
If the mouse is dead and you need to get around, use the keyboard (Tab, arrows and Enter), a laptop touchpad, or Mouse Keys in the accessibility settings.
Wireless mice fail in a typical order: lag and skipping first, then dropouts, then nothing. That pattern is usually power or signal, not a broken mouse.
If the cursor moves but a button does nothing, check the software side before blaming the switch. Mouse software can remap a button to a key, a macro or nothing at all, and the operating system can swap left and right. The Mouse Test on this page shows exactly what each press sends: nothing at all on two computers is a failed switch; a keystroke instead of a click is a remap.
A wheel that does nothing in one app but works in another is a setting in that app. A wheel that scrolls the wrong way for a tick, or jumps back while you scroll, is dust in the wheel encoder or wear. The Scroll Wheel Test counts every wrong-way tick, and a few strong blasts of air into the wheel gap often fixes it.
The single most useful test is a second computer. A fault that follows the mouse — the same dead button, the same jumping wheel — is the mouse, and with a result from the tests here it is usually a straightforward warranty claim. A fault that stays with the computer is a port, driver, setting or software, and replacing the mouse will not fix it.
Try a port on the computer itself, not a hub or the monitor. If the cable is damaged near the mouse, wiggling it while moving will cut out the cursor.
Battery first, then receiver position. An extension cable that puts the receiver near the mouse fixes most lag.
Forget the device and pair again. Bluetooth mice can lag when many other Bluetooth devices are busy.
Profiles, macros and remaps live in the mouse. Reset the onboard profile to defaults before deciding a button is dead.
The primary button setting is flipped. Windows: Settings → Bluetooth & devices → Mouse → Primary mouse button. macOS: System Settings → Mouse → Secondary click.
Windows can switch USB ports off to save power. In Device Manager, open the USB Root Hub entries and untick “Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power”, or use a port on the back of the PC.
That is usually a worn switch, not a setting. Run 50 slow clicks in the Double Click Test for proof before a warranty claim.
Most often a loose or power-saving USB port, a flat battery, a wireless receiver too far away, or a setting such as swapped buttons. Try another port and a fresh battery first, then restart. Dead on a second computer means the mouse itself has failed.
Check the power switch underneath and replace the battery — low batteries cause lag before they die. Plug the receiver into a port on the computer itself, not a hub, and keep it away from USB 3 drives, which interfere with 2.4 GHz. For Bluetooth mice, remove the pairing and pair again.
Try the other USB port first, and check Bluetooth is on for a Bluetooth mouse. Some laptops have a touchpad lock key that can be confused for a mouse problem. If the mouse works on another computer, update or reinstall the laptop’s chipset and USB drivers.
Use the keyboard: Tab, arrows and Enter move through most screens. Windows and macOS both have Mouse Keys in their accessibility settings, which move the pointer with the number pad. A laptop touchpad also works while you test.
On wireless mice it is usually a weak battery or a distant receiver. On any mouse, a glossy or glass surface and a dirty sensor window cause skips. If it only stutters in games, check the polling rate is not set higher than the computer can keep up with.
Most problems, yes: a new port or battery, re-pairing, resetting the profile, and cleaning the sensor and wheel fix the majority. A double-clicking switch can be replaced, but on most mice that needs soldering — under warranty, claim it instead.
Plug it into a second computer. If the same button or the same skipping happens there, it is the mouse. If it works there, the cause is on the first computer: a port, a driver, a setting or the mouse software.
Check every button, the scroll wheel, tilt and side buttons — with a pass or fail.
MouseFind out if your mouse is double clicking — and whether drags drop while you hold.
MouseCatch a jumping scroll wheel, count every tick, and measure scroll speed.
MouseMeasure your mouse polling rate in Hz — 125 to 8000 Hz — and check it matches the setting.